Tuesday, 21 March 2017

Wat Umong, Chiang Mai

Wat Umong (complete name: Wat Umong Suan Puthatham) is a 700-year-old Buddhist temple in Chiang Mai, Thailand.Wat Umong is Chiang Mai’s only forest temple. The temple complex is located at the foot of Doi Pui Mountain and the buildings are located throughout the forested area. Wat Umong dates back to the 13th Century and consists of a range of old ruins, meditation tunnels and a large unpainted stupa. The temple complex also has a monastery so there are always monks walking around, often circling the stupa in prayer. 

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The tunnels are rarely used for meditation anymore due to the amount of visitors that come each day. When entering you should take your shoes off and remain silent as this is a place of worship. There are a few enclaves with Buddha statues and if you look on the ceiling of the tunnels you may be able to see some old drawings of elephants and temples, thought to date back to the 13th or 14th Century. To the left of the tunnels is a large lake and a small island that is connected by a bridge. Just before the bridge there is a small stall selling fish food for 10 Baht. The lake is full of large catfish and by feeding them you gain good merit. There are also a few turtles and it is considered lucky if you spot one of them. While the food is meant for the fish, most people end up feeding the pigeons that live on the island as well.Among the hundreds of Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai, the Wat Umong or “Tunnel temple” is unique because of its location in the forest and its system of tunnels. The serene and peaceful atmosphere at the 13th century forest temple near Doi Suthep mountain provides a welcome change from the much visited sites in Chiang Mai.The temple’s full name is Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham, which translates to “Temple of the tunnels and Buddha Dhamma garden”.A number of tunnels dug out of a mound contains shrines with Buddha images, where devotees can pay their respect to the Buddha.

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The large, shady temple grounds are often filled with the sounds of monks’ chanting. The temple’s setting in a forested area with a natural lake makes the Wat Umong an excellent place for meditation. The meditation center hosts meditation classes and Dhamma talks.Wat Umong is one of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai. It can be an especially magical place just after the rainy season has ended, around early October or November.Wat Umong is unique in many respects. For one, it’s built in the foothills of Suthep mountain and is still heavily forested. But the most unique feature of the temple are the tunnels which give the wat its name.The temple and its tunnels were built in the late 14th century. On a level open space, a large artificial mound was built and then criss-crossed with tunnels. The legend is that the temple was built like this for a highly regarded monk who was nonetheless a little crazy. The somewhat maze-like tunnels kept the mad monk from wandering off.The monastery was later abandoned and wasn’t used again until the 1940’s. The long disuse is probably what accounts for the overgrown atmosphere of the temple. That’s why the temple is so great to visit right after the rains have gone. The brick walls of the mound are covered with moss and small plants. Other stone works are covered in moss and vines.Atop one end of the mound is the temple’s chedi, reachable by a short stairway to the left of the tunnel entrances. The main “bell” section of the pagoda is mostly covered in thick vines, giving a strong sense of decay even though the structure of the pagoda appears sound. When I was here in early October 2002, it appeared that the chedi had been opened and the relic inside removed. A curious little ad-hoc altar had been set up on the base of the pagoda right in front of the rough opening in the brick work. The altar consisted of many tiny Buddha images as well as other offerings, apparently left by many people. By August 2007, the pagoda had been restored and most of the vines removed.

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A trail leads from the chedi across the roof of the mound and down the other side. Just beyond the far edge of the mound is a rather ghastly, very emaciated seated Buddha image. This style of Buddha image was in style for a short time hundreds of years ago, but today there are very few examples of it still in existence.The path down winds through the monk’s cells and other out-buildings, then back around to the front of the mound. Just as the path turns back towards the main tunnel entrance is a curious collection of Buddha heads and other relics from various temples. This odd collection started when one of the temple’s supporters rescued some broken images from an abandoned temple in a nearby province and bought them here. Now, apparently, when people run across such relics or have a broken Buddha they want to replace, they bring them here.If you continue on the path on past the mound and the pagoda, you’ll eventually come to a small lake with many fish, birds and other wildlife.History of the Wat Umong:-The Wat Umong was founded at the end of the 13th century by King Mengrai, first King of the Lanna Kingdom and founder Chiang Mai.According to local legend, the King regularly consulted a monk who lived at the Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan, a temple located within the old city walls of Chiang Mai. The monk named Thera Chan used a tunnel to meditate in peace and quiet.

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When the city of Chiang Mai grew bigger and more crowded, the monk found it more and more difficult to meditate. King Mengrai wanted to accommodate the monk and ordered a number of tunnels dug out in a man made mound outside the city, in a forested area bordering Doi Suthep mountain. The tunnels were lined with brick walls, plastered and Buddhist murals were painted. Shrines with images of the Buddha were added, giving the monk a new place to meditate in peace and quiet.The temple was abandoned during the 15th century. Only in 1948 the temple was restored and one year later reopened as a center for meditation and Buddhist teachings. Today the Wat Umong is an active temple with resident monks. The ancient tunnels have been restored. Unfortunately, most of the murals have disappeared.On top of the mound is a large, circular bell shaped chedi. The Lanna style chedi has recently been restored. Near the chedi is a black image of a very thin fasting Buddha in the ascetic style. The kuti, the monks living quarters, are scattered in the forest.The temple was built in 1297 by King Manglai of the Lan Na dynasty.Of particular interest is a replica of the Ashok Pillar similar to the one at Vaishali with four lions and a wheel at the base and an additional larger wheel on top that acts as an umbrella for the lions.A similar pillar is also available at Sarnath Museum. The four lion head is adopted as the National Emblem of India.

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Copy of an Ashoka pillar:-On the temple grounds is a copy of an Ashoka pillar dating back to the founding of the temple in the 13th century. On top of the pillar are 4 lions and a Dhamma wheel over them. In the 3rd century BC, the Indian King Ashoka send out monks across South and South East Asia, and even as far as Europe to spread Buddhism. A large number of inscribed pillars were erected across India and surrounding countries, some of which still remain today. The pillars are inscribed with details about the spread of Buddhism.Along the trail around the mound is a collection of damaged Buddha images scattered on the grounds between the trees. The images, of some of which only the head is left were brought over from several other temples. In the forest on the temple grounds is a pond with catfish, ducks and turtles waiting to be fed. Food can be bought from one of the vendors at the grounds.

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