Wat Umong (complete name: Wat Umong Suan Puthatham) is a
700-year-old Buddhist temple in Chiang Mai, Thailand.Wat Umong is Chiang
Mai’s only forest temple. The temple complex is located at the foot of
Doi Pui Mountain and the buildings are located throughout the forested
area. Wat Umong dates back to the 13th Century and consists of a range
of old ruins, meditation tunnels and a large unpainted stupa. The temple
complex also has a monastery so there are always monks walking around,
often circling the stupa in prayer.
The tunnels are rarely used for meditation anymore due to the
amount of visitors that come each day. When entering you should take
your shoes off and remain silent as this is a place of worship. There
are a few enclaves with Buddha statues and if you look on the ceiling of
the tunnels you may be able to see some old drawings of elephants and
temples, thought to date back to the 13th or 14th Century. To the left
of the tunnels is a large lake and a small island that is connected by a
bridge. Just before the bridge there is a small stall selling fish food
for 10 Baht. The lake is full of large catfish and by feeding them you
gain good merit. There are also a few turtles and it is considered lucky
if you spot one of them. While the food is meant for the fish, most
people end up feeding the pigeons that live on the island as well.Among
the hundreds of Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai, the Wat Umong or “Tunnel
temple” is unique because of its location in the forest and its system
of tunnels. The serene and peaceful atmosphere at the 13th century
forest temple near Doi Suthep mountain provides a welcome change from
the much visited sites in Chiang Mai.The temple’s full name is Wat Umong
Suan Phutthatham, which translates to “Temple of the tunnels and Buddha
Dhamma garden”.A number of tunnels dug out of a mound contains shrines
with Buddha images, where devotees can pay their respect to the Buddha.
The large, shady temple grounds are often filled with the sounds
of monks’ chanting. The temple’s setting in a forested area with a
natural lake makes the Wat Umong an excellent place for meditation. The
meditation center hosts meditation classes and Dhamma talks.Wat Umong is
one of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai. It can be an especially
magical place just after the rainy season has ended, around early
October or November.Wat Umong is unique in many respects. For one, it’s
built in the foothills of Suthep mountain and is still heavily forested.
But the most unique feature of the temple are the tunnels which give
the wat its name.The temple and its tunnels were built in the late 14th
century. On a level open space, a large artificial mound was built and
then criss-crossed with tunnels. The legend is that the temple was built
like this for a highly regarded monk who was nonetheless a little
crazy. The somewhat maze-like tunnels kept the mad monk from wandering
off.The monastery was later abandoned and wasn’t used again until the
1940’s. The long disuse is probably what accounts for the overgrown
atmosphere of the temple. That’s why the temple is so great to visit
right after the rains have gone. The brick walls of the mound are
covered with moss and small plants. Other stone works are covered in
moss and vines.Atop one end of the mound is the temple’s chedi,
reachable by a short stairway to the left of the tunnel entrances. The
main “bell” section of the pagoda is mostly covered in thick vines,
giving a strong sense of decay even though the structure of the pagoda
appears sound. When I was here in early October 2002, it appeared that
the chedi had been opened and the relic inside removed. A curious little
ad-hoc altar had been set up on the base of the pagoda right in front
of the rough opening in the brick work. The altar consisted of many tiny
Buddha images as well as other offerings, apparently left by many
people. By August 2007, the pagoda had been restored and most of the
vines removed.
A trail leads from the chedi across the roof of the mound and
down the other side. Just beyond the far edge of the mound is a rather
ghastly, very emaciated seated Buddha image. This style of Buddha image
was in style for a short time hundreds of years ago, but today there are
very few examples of it still in existence.The path down winds through
the monk’s cells and other out-buildings, then back around to the front
of the mound. Just as the path turns back towards the main tunnel
entrance is a curious collection of Buddha heads and other relics from
various temples. This odd collection started when one of the temple’s
supporters rescued some broken images from an abandoned temple in a
nearby province and bought them here. Now, apparently, when people run
across such relics or have a broken Buddha they want to replace, they
bring them here.If you continue on the path on past the mound and the
pagoda, you’ll eventually come to a small lake with many fish, birds and
other wildlife.History of the Wat Umong:-The Wat Umong was founded at
the end of the 13th century by King Mengrai, first King of the Lanna
Kingdom and founder Chiang Mai.According to local legend, the King
regularly consulted a monk who lived at the Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan, a
temple located within the old city walls of Chiang Mai. The monk named
Thera Chan used a tunnel to meditate in peace and quiet.
When the city of Chiang Mai grew bigger and more crowded, the
monk found it more and more difficult to meditate. King Mengrai wanted
to accommodate the monk and ordered a number of tunnels dug out in a man
made mound outside the city, in a forested area bordering Doi Suthep
mountain. The tunnels were lined with brick walls, plastered and
Buddhist murals were painted. Shrines with images of the Buddha were
added, giving the monk a new place to meditate in peace and quiet.The
temple was abandoned during the 15th century. Only in 1948 the temple
was restored and one year later reopened as a center for meditation and
Buddhist teachings. Today the Wat Umong is an active temple with
resident monks. The ancient tunnels have been restored. Unfortunately,
most of the murals have disappeared.On top of the mound is a large,
circular bell shaped chedi. The Lanna style chedi has recently been
restored. Near the chedi is a black image of a very thin fasting Buddha
in the ascetic style. The kuti, the monks living quarters, are scattered
in the forest.The temple was built in 1297 by King Manglai of the Lan
Na dynasty.Of particular interest is a replica of the Ashok Pillar
similar to the one at Vaishali with four lions and a wheel at the base
and an additional larger wheel on top that acts as an umbrella for the
lions.A similar pillar is also available at Sarnath Museum. The four
lion head is adopted as the National Emblem of India.
Copy of an Ashoka pillar:-On the temple grounds
is a copy of an Ashoka pillar dating back to the founding of the temple
in the 13th century. On top of the pillar are 4 lions and a Dhamma wheel
over them. In the 3rd century BC, the Indian King Ashoka send out monks
across South and South East Asia, and even as far as Europe to spread
Buddhism. A large number of inscribed pillars were erected across India
and surrounding countries, some of which still remain today. The pillars
are inscribed with details about the spread of Buddhism.Along the trail
around the mound is a collection of damaged Buddha images scattered on
the grounds between the trees. The images, of some of which only the
head is left were brought over from several other temples. In the forest
on the temple grounds is a pond with catfish, ducks and turtles waiting
to be fed. Food can be bought from one of the vendors at the grounds.
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